Hunting to find info on the missing parts from my bike, I’ve collected a few of these as reference. What I notice in this one, is that my side panels are missing some sort of ‘intake grate (black on this blue bike).
After a lot of work, documented here on VW Vortex.. he’s got one hell of a cool result!
Then it starts to look like this. Very clean.. classy. I’m still split on going retro-rat or going with super-clean (but I want to do silver, not perl white). Decisions.. decisions…
Ordering some parts
I want to get this thing going… and the first step will be to get me some of those clubman bars. Found these, hopefully I did not get douched on the price ($52.00 with shipping), from Oregon.
I’m thinking that I can mount them either up or down, depending on how radical I want to make this thing.
At least I’ve taken the first step, and decided that I am NOT going to ‘restore’ the bike, but instead build my first ever Cafe Racer Replica. God help me. At least this will be A LOT less expensive than playing with sports cars, and more mentally challenging than watching Television (gack).
Tonight, I think I’ll really dig into this thing by doing some sanding and bobbing the back fender off.
And a couple more interesting ‘inputs’ on final styling:
I’ve been looking at a number of vintage bikes, and some cafe racer bikers. Going to save these for reference, and what about each one I really like. It will be interesting to come back to these articles once I finally finish the bike and see what I was thinking.
Bike 1 – Honda twin
Elements I like about this Honda.
black painted forks
cool custom high routed exhaust. The wrapping adds a nice effect
chopped off tail
stripped off fenders, front and rear
it’s also a parallel twin
Bike 2 – Honda twin
Elements I like about this Honda.
black paint with gold pinstripe
chrome megaphone exhaust in polished stainless looks cool
short bars
it still has the fenders but they are minimalist and painted.
nice steel braided oil cooler lines
painted branding (no cast emblems)
Bike 3 – Honda CR550F
Elements I like about this Honda.
red and yellow paint, with black side panels is a nice look.
black painted exhaust might be easier to achieve than fixing the pitted stock chrome system
again, the bobbed tail
Bike 4 – Honda (looks like an old Silverwing)
Elements I like about this Honda.
I was originally considering silver paint for the bike, not sure about the blue stripe.
like idea of the painted frame
one thing that I really liked is the flat metal cover below the seat, instead of the stock curved piece.
Bike 5 – Norton
Elements I like about this Norton.
gloss black paint, and stripe.
rubber boots on the forks
silver painted forks (I think)
color matched hub on the rear brake
Bike 6 – Norton
Elements I like about this Norton.
nice custom job
modern front inverted forks and brakes
cool high-mount megaphone exhaust
also looks like a mono-shock rear end, very trick.
Bike 7 – Honda (I think its an old XR400)
Not really relevant to my current project but.. cool idea!
looks like a dirtbike single converted to a street cafe racer
cool chopped rear end
Bike 09 – Kawasaki, maybe?
what’s cool
paint, love the flat olive retro-vintage WWII paint scheme
site exit mega-can exhaust, in black
top mounted bars (no clipons) but sort of inverted looking!
front still has fender, not so sure about that..
rubber boots on forks
Bike 9
what’s cool
flat black paint. I can do that right now.
know official name for those bars, ‘clubmans’ it would be the place to start!
Somewhere it was, but not here. It was rather warm, and the coolness of my subterranean shop was a blessing. It turned out that I would spend the better part of a weekend in there, wrestling the carburetors into the very tight, very new, KZ900 carb holder boots. Stock KZ400 boots are harder to find than Spanish treasure, so based on information on the KZ400 forums, with a little work, carb holders from it’s newer and larger brother would fit. And fit they did, but just barely.
The primary challenges, beyond having to modify the mounting holes on the carb holders (at $45 EACH that was not an easy decision in itself), was that the carb mouth I.D.’s were the same as the carb holder (boot) O.D. Obviously.. that is going to make for a tough install. If you have ever held one of these thick, hard, rubber boots, you’d understand the trepidation that kept this project on my ToDo list for 3 months!
Alas, I finally got motivated enough (gas prices and the fact the 3 week Washington Summer was upon us) to tackle the project last weekend. Here are some thoughts and photos. A quick thanks goes out to my 7 year old boy for taking the ‘action’ shots of dad working on the bike. You’re one in a million, kid!
Now, the size of the carbs is not the whole story. About 2 months prior, with a lot of soap, and pressing with most of my weight, I was able to force the carbs into the rubber boots. That’s where they remained for a long time. The concept being, to stretch them out into a static state that was larger than manufactured size, hopefully making the final install a little easier. And frankly, I think it helped out a lot!
What I tried to illustrate in photos, but clearly did not convey, is that even WHEN you get a single carb in the boot, the other carbs mouths is them 1/4″ off-center. The carbs are mounted to a thick aluminum flange. That flange forces the specific spacing of the carburetors. There is not play, no give, so the only thing that could possibly allow the successful installation of the carbs was REALLY forcing in one carb, then trying to pry it off center line while forcing in the other. All while holding up the carb set. If I’d had 4 hands it would likely have still been impossible.
Thinking about decades of home auto repair, I decided to use a not-often employed tactic of taking things further apart, to make it easier to put back together again. Often it’s an access issue, and although it looks like there is a lot of space, I was having one here.
I finally got the grand idea that if I dismounted the carbs from the mounting flange itself, it would be easier to manipulate than the entire carb set. So I set about unscrewing the carbs from the flange. In the end, it was what I needed to do, to get this project moving again.
Now, that was still a huge struggle to get the flange shoved into the boots, but I was able to get it done! Victory was at hand!!! Now, what remained was to tighten down the holder flange bolts. In what I was say was a stroke of genius, I had purchased round head Allen set bolts to replace the Philips head screws that, normally used. the heads are actually wider, and flatter, but the big bonus was being able to use an Allen key wrench to tighten them down. The brilliance comes in that I knew I might have try just this to get the carbs mounted, and these bolts were part of my plan.
I do not think I would have been able to do that with the Philips head, as the holes in the flange I used to access them were off-axis from the mounting bolts. Using a universal headed Allen tool, I was able to tighten down the bolts using the carb mounting holes in the flange.
Now of course, comes another challenge. The carb mounting bolts are THROUGH bolts from the BACK of the flange into the carbs. So, I would once again be working in the very confined space between the flange and the cylinder head.
Using a very neat tool I picked up at Harbor Freight for $3.00 (small right-angle multi-bit ratcheting wrench) combined with a #2 Phillips bit from another kit, I was able to get the screws that mount the carbs to the flange, tightened down. It took a little while for me to determine exactly what which of the bits were short enough to fit in there, but once that problem was solved, carb #1 was mounted!
As with most mechanical projects where some repetitive work is involved, the subsequent processes generally go much faster. And that was the case here. Viola.. CARB ARE INSTALLED!!!
In the last photo here, I think you can see (I can see it, but I know what I think I see) the degree of stretch required to get the carbs into the boots, and also the off center line mounting of the carbs in the holders themselves.
What remains to be tested:
Carb holder to cylinder head seal
Carb flange to carb seal
Reliability of the carb to holder frictionToday, I plan to get the fuel tank remounted, and if I’m feeling really brave, try to start it up.
My friends from Renton arrived this afternoon and we unloaded (well, dragged the thing out of the back of his pickup) the bike and rolled it into the garage. The sun was shining and the weather warm (ish). Perfect day for a motorcycle push. Well, you see, it’s not quite running yet. Something about the carb manifolds having disintegrated from time and neglect.
It is an interesting beast. 400cc of air-cooled parallel twin power (most of you know my affinity for a pair of jugs) just waiting to be brought back to life. Here are a few photos of it, as it arrived.
Over the next few days it’s final disposition will be decided. Will I restore it to it’s vintage bike glory, or will I take it down the ill-advised road to vintage cafe racer rat-bike status. Only a thorough inventory of work required, can help me decide.
One of the more amusing aspects of this situation, is the comparison of old and new. Standing next to a modern 1100cc superbike, the KZ400 is every bit as large and, based on how much effort it took to drag it out of the pickup, not that much lighter. But the leaps in performance in the last 30 years is, well, impressive!
I hope to have it ready, for when summer hits, some time in 2010.