Shop Makover – First phase completed!

Starting Point

I purchased the house in January 2007. I took this picture on the night I received the keys. The garage looks pretty big in this photo. And in fact it is a nice decent sized tandem garage. Nothing was painted at that point. As you can see, the rear wall is cement.

The way it looked when I bought the home.
The way it looked when I bought the home.

The first thing I did, before moving anything into the shop was to start priming the walls. Being anxious to get out of the projects I was temporarily renting, I decided that I’d primed enough to move in my junk. And to a large degree junk it is.

The garage remained in this state for about 1 year, before I started to empty out of my storage units and move my crap in with me.

A downward spiral of hoarding, had begun.

Shop as it looked after movin (Jan 2007).
Shop as it looked after movin (Jan 2007).

First year

Despite my best efforts of my messier side, to clutter things up. It remained pretty clean and organized for the first year following move-in. Here the walls are primed, I have my flag (it flew on my old house the morning of 9/11, I always flew a flag in front of my house), the last of my Porsches and for once very little clutter along the walls.

My old 993 in the shop.
My old 993 in the shop.

After the first 2 years, thing got rather messy

Fast forward two years (February 2009) and this is what it had all degraded too. Stuff everywhere, tools hard to find, boxes of 20 year old paperwork mixed in with cases of chemicals, car parts, books, and miscellaneous… stuff.

In this show I had actually done a significant amount of cleanup, since I was testing out the viability of converting the larger rear section of shop into a photo studio. With a pair of home-made backdrops (thanks to DIY Photography website), and inexpensive halogen lighting it actually worked!

The floor is wet because I mop it from time to time, to keep the concrete dust manageable. It’s really bad. Not sure whey it seems to power up so much. Cars and motorcycles maybe? Don’t know, but it’s less than ideal!
ShopStart01

I’d also painted the wall above the garage door, and the stairwell entry. It was a blue I picked up at the store for $5.00 a gallon. Pretty good deal. And it’s really a nice blue. But.. not for the shop. I never finished the cut-in because I was not sure I wanted to keep it blue.

It was not a tough decision to change it, but I didn’t know what I wanted to change it too. White was too boring, dark blue was too dark. So it stayed in that condition until November 2009 when I finally decided on a color that worked for me.

Another one of the steps in the process, was to sell the beast of a motorcycle seen here. It was my KTM 950 Adventure S. A kick-ass machine, but one I seldom used. Basically it was just losing value and I had a fair bit of cash tied up in it. Selling it alone freed up a much of space in the shop.
ShopStart02

Underway

Sometimes you have to make a HUGE mess, to start cleaning things up.

This is about 1/3 of the way into the project. By this time I had applied some white cement paint (high traffic formula), taken apart, moved and re-assembled my workbench.

One of the desires I’ve had for years, was to find a way to put my toolbox ‘inside’ the workbench. This does two things for me. One, uses up less wall space. Two, it’s one less flat surface I’m inclined to stack junk on. I’m not the cleanest person by far, but if I put some logistic limitations on myself, I can remain fairly neat and organized. One just has to come to terms with one’s eccentricities and limitations.

Getting my Snap-On toolbox under the bench required a permanent modification to the bench itself. It also required that I remove the wheels from the base of the toolbox so that it would ‘slide’ under the benchtop without me cutting the bench top supports. It’s FAR easier said than done. Removing the wheels was easy. Wrestling the box up inside the confines of the workbench took about 30 minutes.
16563_1210547382345_1188554286_30665926_81012_n

Storage racks cleared, boxes opened and inventoried, you name it. The process was getting to be pretty intense. At this point piles of things were being relocated in groups around the shop, in order to gain access for painting or cleaning of other spots of the shop.

A failed attempt at application of a red stripe between the grey and white resulted in the rough line seen there. The ‘maximum application time’ suggested for painter’s easy release tape is, as I find in a lot of things (like the weight rating of cheap ladders), actually has some relevance. In this case it’s 2 weeks. And in my case, I left it on longer than that, over-painting the bad Red gloss paint. The Red under the white primer is no longer visible, after countless coats. The buildup of paint on the wall in that area is, impressive?
15569_1205597258595_1188554286_30655440_7931022_n

After completing the upper wall repaint, I moved onto the rear wall. A lot of the junk on the floor was held by the empty shelving unit seen middle photo. Most of it was, actually. But here, things are starting to come together and I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. This is turning out to be worth all the effort.
16563_1210579223141_1188554286_30666128_2983081_n

PAINTED!
Long shot to the back of the shop. Walls painted in the two colors and my big H&R banner hung up. It’s really huge. And it’s a nice high quality banner. However, I’m not loving it. It’s just too big.

I think I’m going to take it down for while and see how I like it without the big banner. Maybe I’ll sell it on CraigsList. Maybe I’ll toss it. Maybe I’ll store it for a future shop at some point in the, uh, future. But I’m pretty sure I’m taking it down for now, at least.
10932_1216298326115_1188554286_30677900_3916189_n

Even the largest of my vehicles fits easily in the reconfigured shop. The proximity of the work bench could be an issue working on doors, but I still have the entire latter 1/2 of the shop I can pull the vehicle into if I need to do that work.

As shown in previous photos, I can fit two cars, three motorcycles and a fair bit of storage all in this ‘little’ shop.
10932_1217203388741_1188554286_30679527_3359182_n

Phase 1 Completed

A place for everything, and everything in it’s place.

For the time being, the motorcycles will live along that wall. When the weather improves I plan to spread them out for easy selection.

The line between the grey and white turned out very crisp, and thanks to the use of the laser, level and very straight.

Patience pays off.

ShopMakeover01

The final result of the wall repaints. The slip cover on that couch has to go. It’s hideous. Not as hideous as the couch fabric it covers (long story there), but it just looks… bad. I think a new red one is in order. There is still too much concrete dust to use black, it would be worse that the denim blue.

Again, the upper / lower sections of the wall show a nice crisp line. Unfortunately that wall is concrete and full of imperfections. At some point I might skin it with 1/4″ sheetrock and repaint. But not this winter.
ShopMakeover02

The choice to repaint that section in the high-gloss gray enamel, made me happy. It looks nice, clean and not so depressingly dark when I walk to the shop. Plus it’s not the same boring white I could have done.

This time I cut in the corners and even painted that section of the ceiling to match. That was partially a test to see if I should paint more of the ceiling in that way. So far I really like it. Not sure how it would play out in the full garage but I’m leaning towards it pretty heavily.

Also in the photo is the aluminum later that almost killed me. Stupid thing collapsed and I fell about 4′ do the cement floor. Luckily I still had a bunch of stuff staged for donation and storage, and that ‘cushioned’ my fall. Cheap Chinese crap ladder. I’m glad I have my real American made ladder back from my friend Colleen (it does not look like it ended up in any of the photos, but I was also not trying to photograph my ladder!).

ShopMakeover03

And finally, the ‘Big Red Wall’. This is actually how the entire project started. I decided to finish painting this wall with primer, then applied the $5.00 gallon of red paint (Lowe’s Clearance Sale) and viola. I was so happy it inspired me to redo the entire shop.

In the back you can see the kickback section of wall, now painted in a sage tone green. This is the same color I painted my kitchen (another $5.00 score I had custom mixed). Frankly, most people that have seen the shop don’t understand my green wall. Tough. It’s my shop. It might see the same white-gray treatment the rest of the shop sees, but I’m going for a bit of a multi-purpose area theme. Mixed shop and video gaming man-cave (60″ plasma and network cabling to follow later).

I have a couch (that slip cover is NOT going to remain… looking for a better looking cover right now) for the space, and a pair of stacking office chairs. I’m also on the hunt for more 50’s era bar / dinner stools like I have upstairs. There is a quirky place right across the street from work that sells random stuff. Next time they get some more I’ll be in there to check them out.

Drain pipes also received a treatment of the gloss gray. I think it’s much less distracting than the black pipe covered with plaster and white paint streaks. They almost look like steel pipes (they are some sort of poly/pvc/plastic).

ShopMakeover04

The next step for me, it taking care of the floor ‘treatment’. Right now I am investigating the costs and utility of installing Martial Arts mats in the ‘pregnant’ section of the shop. The other option is the epoxy paint. Painting would have to wait for summer since it won’t cure in these temperatures.

I’m sure I’ll have more to say on the shop later.

For now, I rest.

I-205, the Portland Sucker Bet

Not to scale, clearly.
Not to scale, clearly.
All the years I have lived up here, and traveled down I-5 to California, I wondered if this sign, just south of Portland was misleading. It always seemed to take far longer and be far more easterly to take the I-205 bypass around Portland, than the I-5 central route through the city. The sign implies a little extra distance. Reality? Read on.

Here is what the area looks like. Now that you have seen the sign, here are the mapped routes, with mileage. Should the OR DOT be smacked for putting up such a misleading sign? You be the judge.

I-5 Route through Portland
I-5 Route through Portland
This time, I decided I had to find out for certain. On the way down I took the I-5 central route through Portland and measured the mileage. As you can see here, the route looks pretty straight, with a little bend just south of the city.

Measuring the distance along I-5 came to 27 miles. Longer than I thought! No wonder why it seems to take forever to get through there, it’s about a 30 minute drive without traffic!

The I-205 Sucker Bet
The I-205 Sucker Bet
On my return, I took the I-205 bypass, touted as a faster way around the city, and of relatively equal distance. I present this image for you, and the following data.

Clearly, you can see that it’s a MUCH longer route. And the actual path looks, quite different, than the sign suggests.

So, how much of a sucker bet is it? How about 67% longer than the I-5 route?! It’s just a hair over 40 miles!

Traffic would have to be a crawling 30 MPH all the way through and past the city to break even! Now, here is the kicker. When traffic is bad in Portland, it’s just as bad, if not worse on I-205 (been there, parked in that).

So, no matter how you cut it. Unless you are going to the airport, East on OR-84 or WA-4 it’s a sucker’s bet and one you should NOT TAKE!

Traveler beware. The Oregon DOT and that sign LIE!!

ML430 Milage analysis

Having just completed a trip to CA and back in the ML430, I have my first real analysis of it’s highway mileage average. Keep in mind that about 1/3 of that is on mountain roads from Roseburg, OR to Red Bluff CA.

Even hauling the ML and gear up and down those mountains repeated times still netted a pretty decent average for a 4300LB V8 powered AWD brick.

ML430 Flying Brick
ML430 Flying Brick

Mileage by the numbers

Total gallons consumed: 102 of premium, once I had to pay $3.41 per gallon in NorCal for it.. ouch!
Miles traveled: 1825 Bremerton, WA -> San Jose, CA -> Bremerton, WA)
Average: 17.9 MPG Note: EPA estimates are 14/17 under new test standard (old standard was 15/19)
Approximate Fuel Cost: $318.00
Bremerton to Eugene: 18.1 MPG Mostly flat freeway driving. Significant stop & go due to fog and traffic leaving Bremerton.
Eugene to Grants Pass 19.2 MPG Very heavy fog, but little traffic congestion. Able to keep a pretty steady highway speed, despite mountains an fog.
Grants Pass to Del Rio 18.2 MPG All 66% 2-lane mountain driving to the coast, and into the Redwood forests of NorCal.
Del Rio to Ukiah 17.5 MPG Split between multi-lane and 2-lane mountain driving.
Ukiah to San Jose to Vaccaville 18.0 MPG Mostly multi-lane highway. Very little traffic outside San Francisco.
Vacaville to Weed 15 MPG Massive headwinds, crappy CA gas from Valero might play a factor too.
Weed to Salem 18.5 MPG That was crossing two 4000′ passes and multiple others at uh.. a spirited pace, and also included about 30 miles of stop & go driving in dense fog with heavy traffic. That number really surprised me.
Salem to Bremerton 18.9 MPG Flat freeway driving. Very little stop and go.

What I found most interesting about this analysis, is that the mountains, despite the perceived effort required to get over them, did not seem to impact overall mileage to a great extent. See Weed -> Salem vs. Salem -> Bremerton. From Weed, several passes, including the highest anywhere on I-5 was crossed, yet the different is a 3.5% loss in mileage.

Also of note was that those headwinds in the central valley alone (it’s flat) cost roughly 17% loss! And looking at the other numbers, even though Weed is in the mountain passes, climbing them seems to have only a small impact on overall performance (in the mileage sense).

Another upside, is that extended duration of more than 3/4 throttle climbs of the hills seem to have cleared out some of the vehicles cobwebs. Maybe the catalytic converters became hot enough to burn out some of the crud building up in them from around-town delivery / hauling.

I’m very heavily re-considering my plan to sell this vehicle. It costs me more to maintain and drive, but insurance is lower, winter driving conditions are almost a non-factor with it’s amazing AWD/4×4 capabilities (well tested during last seasons endless winter). It’s comfortable, quiet and reliable enough for long distance driving. It also has fantastic brakes (by Brembo of course, they are the same components that were on my ’95 Porsche 911!), is not lacking in the acceleration category (thanks to almost 300HP) and offers some nice luxuries.

A subsequent test of mileage while commuting is now underway. I should have the results of that by week’s end.

Notable Quotables

Here are some Notable Quoteables from yours truly:

Malignant Engineering

A design paradigm, where the product eventually takes over all resources, eventually killng the host, yet living on indefinitely.

If we try to force delivery now, of these premature ideas, the final product like most certainly suffer from serious developmental disabilities.

And of course my classic:

Laziness is the Father of Invention.

MGR-1B Honest John Rocket Project (DD08)

Goal of this project, is to create an authentic looking model of this rocket here, the MGR-2 Honest John tactical missile.

MGR-1A  Honest John (on left)
MGR-1A Honest John (on left)
MGR-1B
MGR-1B

Second of my custom rocket construction projects. This is the also the 2nd of my semi-scale rocket builds. The first (DD05 V2) was mostly a simple modification of a single rocket kit. This project is based primarily on parts from an Estes LoadStar rocket kit, with significant modifications.

I decided to start off with the most challenging part of the build. Construction of the warhead section. The orginal real Honst John (MBG-1A and MGR-1B) had a rather unique bulged section to house the warhead. It took a few days of considering several methods of accomplishing this before it was clear that no intermediate tube was even required. Having all the parts I needed already I started the build.

Original LoadStar nose code and payload adaptor
Original LoadStar nose code and payload adaptor

Normally the parts are separated at the waist section in the middle, creating a seperate nose cone and payload adapter section. That middle part was not needed at all, and if used would have created a warhead section that looked very little like the original.  To produce the desired result, the upper and lower sections would be chemically welded together.

Nose cone and adapter sectioned.
Nose cone and adapter sectioned.

Following the fusing of two sections, fine filler was applied to all the joints and mold lines and set aside to harden.

Assembled, glued and filled warhead assembly
Assembled, glued and filled warhead assembly

After the filler dried, and finish sanding completed, the assembly has taken on the desired look.  The warhead’s boat tail is shorter on my semi-scale attempt than the real rocket.  This is an important point to consider later in the project.

Final wet sanding of the nose section.
Final wet sanding of the nose section.

Checking scale of the nose and body, compared to a good side view of the real deal.   Measuring, the photo was within 80% of the size of the final product.  Considering the boat tail on my warhead section is shorter, I adjusted the body section proportion to give me a good overall length and look.   Yes, this is a semi-scale project using off-the-shelf parts.

Double checking my scale calculations
Double checking my scale calculations

To be continued….

Construction History

11-Oct-2009
Began construction of custom warhead section from LoadStar nose and payload adapter.

12-Oct-2009
Finish sanding of the nose section. Checking scale and calculating a reasonable body tube length.

Flying fleet continues to expand

The collection of flying rockets continues to expand.

FLEET (l. to r.)  220Swift, Sprint, Fire Streak, Viking, DD05 (V2 semi-scale), Pheonix, DD06 (docked Taser w/ L.E.D. payload), Big Betty, DD07 (custom Bertha w/ payload)
FLEET (l. to r.) 220Swift, Sprint, Fire Streak, Viking, DD05 (V2), Phoenix, DD06 (Taser mod.), Big Betty, DD07 (custom)

DD05

This is a semi-custom design.  Based on an Estes Baby Bertha rocket kit.  Extended nose cone and scale V2 fins make this look similar to the world changing V2 Ballistic Missile of WWII.  Rocket was still awaiting final finish paint at time of photo.  [ Full Project Writeup ]

DD06

Design is more of a repair and subsequent enhancement of an existing rocket (Estes Taser).  Following water damage at the base of the body tube, I sectioned about 2″ from it, and re-affixed the poly engine and fin assembly.  The top red payload section is from parts ordered online.  The L.E.D. payload (for night flights) comes from Halloween skull decorations (like the white plastic skull far right).  A pair of night flights proved the rocket to be a good flyer and the lights made night recovery very easy.   Night rocket launches are fun!

DD07

Constructed completely from spare parts attached to a large Estes BT-55 body tube that I ordered online.  The fins and nose cone came the Baby Bertha kit.  Launch lug and payload section came from an Estes Payloader rocket (which was parted out for another project DD08).  Engine mount was constructed from scratch based on patterns from other kits and a home-made mild steel engine retainer clip.

V2 Rocket Project (DD05)

Effort chronicled of converting an Estes Baby Bertha rocket kit into a semi-scale representation of a V2 rocket. Semi-scale because I’m not ready to construct the boat-tail rocket body just yet.

Estes Baby Bertha

estt1261Original Kit Estes Baby Bertha is not really close to a V-2 rocket in look, beyond the stubby body and a faint similarity in the fins, oh and the number of fins (4).

German V-2 Vergeltungswaffe

my_v2As you can see from this diagram the V2 Rocket has a much longer, oglive type of nose section and much shorter fins:


Starting the Modifications

The first order of business is to get as close a representation as possible of the V2 fins. Do do this I’m simply going to scale up a planform drawing of the V-2, to match that of the kit. I measured out overall body length of the modified rocket (with new BT-60 Estes plastic nose cone) to 310mm.

V-2_fins_full-scale

My printer is not quite large enough to print the full 310mm, so I have cut the image at the CL of the rocket body mass (at 157mm). But first I had to calculate how much additional length to the overall rocket was required for the section of fun extending below the fuselage. It turned out to be 3%. So the total overall plan image is is 322mm. However the total image size my printer will handle is 251mm. The simplest thing to do was to cut off the top 71mm from the image and print it.

This up-scaled view was compared to the target size, which matched, and the final fin design was based on this image.

Baby V-2

As it turned out, the fin is very close in size and style between the two rockets. In fact the root length is identical.
Baby Bertha vs. V-2 Fin Design

The new fin plan was laid out on fresh 3/32″ balsa wood ($3.00 at the local hobby shop), and 4 fins were constructed from the pattern (seen here).

V-2 Fin Pattern

Rule: When laying out fins, never run the root of the fin parallel to the grain of the wood. Doing so will seriously compromise the strength of the resulting fin, and possibly cause in flight detachment. It’s not only important to NOT have the grain parallel to the fin root, but every effort should be made to make the parallel to the fin’s leading edge! A recent construction error on my part had the grain running parallel on 2 fins, and perpendicular to leading edge on two others. The two with the perpendicular orientation are VERY FLEXIBLE and might sheer off in flight. So, really, there is only one ‘right’ way to orient the grain of your fins.

Following the cut-out of fins, they were sanded on all sides to equalize size, and straighten cut edges. These are no laser cut fins, this is old school fin construction circa 1970’s.

Once glued to the body, and fin joints suitable filleted, rocket is left to dry for 8 hours.

fins_2631 fins_2632 fins_2633
fins_glued_2636

Next order of business is construction of the engine mount. The rocket body is much larger than the engine mount itself, so it requires the user of centering rings. These are stamped out of fiber board at the factory. What they charge for a motor mount kit is more than an entire rocket kit (crazy). Going along with the experimental theme of this rocket I have taken it upon my self to partially fabricate the motor mount myself.

The most challenging part is getting just the right diameters on the centering rings. So I have taken a Sharpy and darkened the die-punched rings in original kit, photocopied them, and glued the resulting pattern to some 3/32″ balsa (first photo). The original die-cut rings were marked with the body size (BT-60) and filed for future use. Cutting them out from the balsa, I affixed them to the main motor mount tube (blue) and sanded the edges smooth. Once the glue had setup on the mount, the assembly was installed in the rocket body according to the original specifications (last photo). Inside of the body tube is coated with glue.

Fabricating the motor mount centering rings from balsa
Fabricating the motor mount centering rings from balsa
Completed motor mount (standard A-B-C size casing)
Completed motor mount (standard A-B-C size casing)
Motor mount installed and cemented into rocket body
Motor mount installed and cemented into rocket body

The recovery system was also modified, based on the parachute I found in one of the vintage rockets I have from yesteryear. I recall ‘back in the day’ that a lot of the parachute recovery systems for these rockets had an opening in the top to accelerate decent and to keep drift manageable. I was happy to find that the oldest rocket I have still has it’s parachute and that chute has the original markings for the fast-descent configuration!

I took it’s pattern, transferred it to the new chute and replicated the modification. On a side note, the fast-descent chute I pulled from the old Bull-Pup 12D rocket was installed in my modified payload carrying Taser and it worked great! So I’m confident this will not result in too rapid a descent.

Old style Estes fast-descent chute
Old style Estes fast-descent chute
Pattern aplied to new chute
Pattern aplied to new chute
Final result of modification
Final result of modification

Application of ‘ Dope‘ sanding sealer on the balsa parts, letting that dry and priming the body in white paint was next.

Rocket after first coat of white sanding primer
Rocket after first coat of white sanding primer
Final result of priming and sanding.
Final result of priming and sanding.

It’s first test flight was planned for the 4th, but wind was just too high. Here is the new Rocket next to the rest of the current flying fleet for a little size comparison.

Flying fleet: (l-r)  Taser,  220Swift, Viking, V2 thing.
Flying fleet: (l-r) Taser, 220Swift, Viking, V2 thing.

While I was prepping the rocket, painting, sanding what have you, there was nagging issue. Well, two nagging issues:

  • The fins looked too large
  • Two of the 4 fins seemed excessively flexible.

I pulled out my scale renderings of the rocket, and had a major DOH! moment. While working up the drawings, there was an over sized and properly scaled diagram printed on opposite sides of a sheet of paper. I must have been interrupted because despite all my efforts to create the 2nd, properly scaled layout, I used the older OVER SIZED layout for the rocket fins. The V2 looked more like something Jules Verne drawn, to get to the moon.

Combined with what I deduced was a major construction flaw (the wrong grain direction on the fins), I really had not choice but to CUT off the fins and start that part of the project over. So, I did just that.

GOOD and BAD fins.  I highlighted the grain direction to point out what you should NOT do.  Really it does make a difference!
GOOD and BAD fins. I highlighted the grain direction to point out what you should NOT do. Really it does make a difference!
Rocket stripped of it's fins.  Getting all the glue and balsa off the body eventually required a heavy wood file.
Rocket stripped of it's fins. Getting all the glue and balsa off the body eventually required a heavy wood file.
Comparison of my fin size issue.  The outside area is the actual fin I first created.  The paper pattern is the correct size.  Big difference.
Comparison of my fin size issue. The outside area is the actual fin I first created. The paper pattern is the correct size. Big difference.

A couple of hours of work went into removing the old fins, creating the new fins, cutting off all the old material, filing, sanding and installing the new fins. Almost back to square one, but I have the right size fins and the right grain direction on all the fins. I feel much better about flying this rocket in the next few days, than the previous incarnation.

Reconstructed.  Some body putty to fix tube damage is seen at top.  Everything has to be sanded again.
Reconstructed. Some body putty to fix tube damage is seen at top. Everything has to be sanded again.

After hours of additional filling, sanding and repair the fist of the yellow base coats were applied. Again the Valspar pain (about $4.00 a can) resulted in a very nice smooth color. This photo was after only a single coat. the final coat really looked great.

DD05  V2  model (left)   Quest Sprint model (right)
DD05 V2 model (left) Quest Sprint model (right)

Video of first test launch. You can see the nice slow liftoff. This was with a small A-class engine so altitude is not very high.

A couple of days later the final filling and sanding was completed, yellow base coat applied and ready for application of the test pattern masks.

DD05  final base coat applied
DD05 final base coat applied

And here is the final result. After a day of the paint drying, mask removed and we have the DD05 V2 semi-scale rocket model.

DD05 V2 final paint
DD05 V2 final paint

It was modeled after this actual rocket, seen here during testing at White Sands New Mexico.
space_v2

Here is another on display at the Museum in White Sands.
V2-wsmr-new010


Construction History

29-Sep-2009
Construction started. Fin design finalized. Fins cut. BT-60 body tube marked for fins.

30-Sep-2009
Fins sanded to size. Fin markings on rocket body compared to V-2 side elevation for positioning. Fins installed and filleted.

5-Oct-2009
Primed and ready for a test flight. Final color schemed undecided. However a potential construction error on my part might ground the rocket due to incorrect balsa grain direction on 2 of the 4 fins.

6-Oct-2009
REBUILDING FINS: As much as I did not want too, I cut off the incorrectly built fins. I took photos that show how I botched the first ones. Body needs to be sanded, new fins made and attached.

7-Oct-2009
Priming, sanding, priming, sanding. Repairing damage to the main body tube from removal of the larger fins. Also used a commercial sanding sealer (really nasty stuff) on the balsa fins. It adds weight but it provides a nicer finish in return.

8-Oct-2009
More sanding and priming of the body. It’s just about ready for it’s final paint job, and I’ve finally decided on the scheme. A post WWII test pattern used on captured V2 rockets tested at the White Sands facility. I’m still tempted to paint in the ragged desert camo, but I also want to be able to find the thing when it lands!

10-Oct-2009
First coats of the base body color applied. First 2 test flights performed with great success. It’s a very nice flying rocket. It’s additional weight gives it a slightly slower and more realistic takeoff. The size of the rocket body also makes it easier to track in the sky.

13-Oct-2009
Project Completed! Final sanding, base and test pattern applied.

Racing, Photography, Software and Politics.