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Short Course R/C Racing – My Novice season just about over.

The journey started in mid October. I was in Port Orchard, having a beer and pizza with some friends, when one of them suggested we drop by the R/C track in Bremerton afterward. I’d never heard of an indoor R/C track in the area. I used to have a couple of the early electric R/C cars back in the 70’s and 80’s. It was some pretty crude stuff, with speed controllers made of a large ceramic brick wound with resistant wire, and a big sweeping ‘arm’ that adjusted motor speed by moving across the big resistance block. Closer to the end, shorter the wire and faster it ran. You had to sand the arm often to remove the carbon burns, and the resistor brick didn’t last that long either.

Having been into electric R/C helicopters for over a year, I’m quite familiar with the advances in electronic speed controllers. Long gone are the days of that stupid rheostat ‘brick’. What would these modern R/C vehicles looks like and how would the perform? Curious I was. And fascinating it was.

That weekend, I took the kids to the track. We were there until they closed at nearly midnight. The next day I bought my daughter a Team Associated RTR (Ready-to-Run) 1/10th scale Short Course racing truck. And down the slope I slid.

Here is a video from Team Associated. You get an idea of how capable these little vehicles are, and it also includes video of the REAL Short Course racing trucks.

By mid November I’d bought a used truck for myself. Also a Team Associated SC10, but it was far from ready to run, but it was pretty close, all I needed was a radio system and batteries. Soon I was at the track a couple of days a week, practicing, watching and learning the ropes. Come December, I’d started racing in the Novice class.

I had a lot to learn, and a lot of stuff to repair on the truck. The best part about it was the upgraded NOVAK 13.5 power system (still qualifies for stock class), the ball differential and a big set of extra tires and wheels. In the first week I replaced the trashed Lexan shell with one I ‘custom’ painted for myself.

SC10 Racing Bodies, New and Old.

Within a day, I had this little gem:

My first SC10.

By the end of December, there were three, one for each of us.

Team Associated R/C trucks

When January started, I was pretty consistently racing 2 nights a week at the track. I was addicted. I’d bought a set of high-C (high burst capacity) batteries, transitioning the original 20c batteries I’d purchased (about $60 each) to the kids. Soon I had a pretty good setup of 2 35C 3800mAh qualifier batteries and one 50C 5000mAh battery for the longer Main. I used to laugh a little inside at the massive kits these guys would show up at the track with. Rollers, piles of chargers, tools, tires, gear sets. But soon, my pit was starting to look more and more like the others.

SC10 truck in the pits during Monday Races at Bremerton RC Raceway.

R/C racing is challenging. It’s one thing to race well while sitting in the driver seat, feeling the vehicle move around, literally using your gut feelings about how the vehicle is handling. It’s entirely another thing to understand those dynamics, from 50′ away, using only your eyes. However like with most things, you start to train your brain to perceive and understand the subtle messages the little vehicle is sending. And when you understand that, and you start to hone your skills, it starts to be come amazingly fun. Then, the competitive streak kicks in. And you just don’t want to get around the track once without crashing, you want to WIN!

But to win, you need to at least be playing on a level field with your competitors. As I wandered around the pits, checking out my competitor’s vehicles one thing became quite clear. There was one model of truck the really fast guys were running. The Team Associated Factory Team SC10. The writing was on the wall. I had to upgrade.

Now, when we first started this adventure, the attractive, glossy Factory Team kits on the shelf in the store got my immediate attention. And so did the price. The Ready-to-Run Trucks (pre-built, just add battery) were $290. The Factory Team kit was only $250. So I of course inquired. The Factory Team kit was full of up-line parts, like Titanium suspension components, updated performance threaded shocks, and a heavy dose of Aluminum fasteners (instead of carbon steel) and carbon fiber. But, it had not motor, not ESC, no radio, no servo. To totally kit out the Factory Team would require another $110 for a basic radio, $50 for a good metal-gear servo, $250 for a motor and ESC. Add that to the price of the kit (which you have to build mind you), and you’re talking $660. That’s a lot more than the $290 for the same basic chassis, a pre-pained shell ($50), r2.4GHz radio ($100) and motor and ESC system ($140 – don’t ask how I know that). So, the RTR was what I bought (the RTR SC10 belongs to my daughter and the RTR truck to The Boy), and for a while, it was plenty awesome.

But racing is most fun when you think you can win. Because of this, mid-January I stopped thinking about it, and pulled the trigger on a brand new truck kit, the SC10 Factory Team.

SC10 Factory Team.

Thankfully, I’d taken the old truck apart and put it back together again many times repairing things, so I knew what I needed to do, to put it all together. But, wow.. I didn’t expect it would take me about 2 days to get it done! From assembling the titanium turn buckles, to installing all those little fasteners, radio, motor, servo, BUILDING the 4 shocks (and all that includes such as working the air out of the shocks, time consuming), setting up the transmission, selecting gearing, gluing up the tires. It’s a lot of little work!

If I’d bought a kit for my daughter, stead of the Ready-To-Run, I think we’d been far too paranoid to break it, and would not have had nearly as much fun.

First time on the track, I ran the WORST race so far. I was horrible. It was horrible. I could not get the truck to jump, I could not get it to turn, I was really, REALLY thinking I’d made a $300 mistake (bought a pair of Panther front tires at the same time, stock fronts are worthless). It was frustrating. But, the great group of people that work and volunteer at Bremerton Radio Control Raceway were amazingly helpful. Eventually, I was running consistently enough to get a #1 position in qualifying.

Running the #1 plate for qualifing.

On Wednesday night, 26-JAN-2011, I finally won my first A Main race! Still running in Novice class, it was not a track roasting run, but I did dominate the race, leading almost all of the 13 laps. And my average lap times would have put me in the middle of the pack for Stock Short Course, racing with the regulars (and my regulars, I mean the guys I see there every night).

So, it looks like my lazy, hazy dayz in the Novice class are starting to come to an end. One more Novice Main win and they will bump me to the ‘Big Boys’. I’m going to need to keep stepping up my game if I plan to compete there! If all goes well, I should have only 2 more Novice races in the next week (Monday and Wednesday night).

Wish me luck?

Day the world came crashing down

Yes, a day I will never forget.

Partially, because it as so absurd. And partially because the sound of my Real Estate agents voice, when I told him what I saw, while looking out my front door:

A wall of green. Oh, this CAN'T be good.

While cooking breakfast for my kids, one blustery morning, I was startled by what sounded like a lunatic kicking in my front door. As I rounded the corner, I saw that the door was in fact, now, wide open, and.. there was this very powerful sent of… of… evergreen. A few milliseconds later, steeled for confrontation with whatever insane manic was now in my house, I realized, I was not facing a mortal man, but a 120′ giant, lying, outside my front door.

What *is* that smell?

Now, I’d had a few odd things happen while I was trying to sell this (wonderful, honestly wonderful) house. This provided me with much entertainment as I casually mentioned these things to my astounded, horrified and otherwise good sport of a Real Estate agent. Like the time the Coroner was at the house, big black city Medical Examiners van parked right in front of the house. Hey, it looked like the dog has dug up human knee, very cleanly butchered, so I called in an expert. They removed, the remains and that was that. So when I called to ask what the next step was, if say, a 100′ tree fell across the property, he proceeded to chuckle, and tell me about the next planned Open House. It took a few minutes to convince him that I did, in fact, have said tree, on said front lawn, and he might want to come out and see if this could be possible issue in the sale of the house.

Fortunately, the damage was relatively minor, a section of the fence was modified

Hemlock, nature's little fence guillotine

My little cargo trailer took a little bit of a beating as well:

All is not lost. The tree is also nature’s way of meeting neighbors:

Neighbor Sara drops by to 'help'.

At least potential buyers could see a little bit of the house, even if they couldn’t get to it (and yes, a number of people came to see the house that morning).

This is the estate's security barrier.

Humans, so full of hubris. Here’s a little reminder from Mother Nature that she doesn’t give a flying sack of crap about us, she’s gonna do whatever she damn well pleases. Fences? Nature does not recognize fences.

Dave’s Top 10 Songs of the week

Playing with the iTunes app, I’ve scrubbed out my old history and reset the counters, and now I have a top-10 list of my favorite (more played) songs from last week: One of them looks like the same song but one is the video, the other is just the tune.

I’m thinking of making this a weekly addition to my blog. Will I keep up with it? I don’t know, only time will tell. Either way, here is the first installment, from the most to least played last week:

1 Porn Star Dancing (feat. Ludacris) [Bonus Track] – My Darkest Days (Exclusive Edition)
2 Ecuador – The Best of Sash! (Extended Edition)
3 Da Capo – Ace of Base: Greatest Hits
4 Citizen/Soldier – 3 Doors Down
5 What I See – Karmacode
6 Hell Patrol – Painkiller
7 Porn Star Dancing (The Allstar Version) [Bonus Video] – My Darkest Days, Ludacris & Zakk Wylde
8 Russia Privjet – LOL <(^^,)>
9 Der Meister – Herzeleid
10 Life Is Beautiful – Heroin Diaries (Original Soundtrack)

My first iPhone “App”


Well, there it is! As it lives and beeps. It’s my first iPhone App.

What does it do? Well, when you press the button, you get a little Jersey d-bag slang. Everyone it tired of the ubiquitous “Hello World”, and I am not different (in that respect, and also nothing like anyone else…. dichotomy, discuss).

The good news is that it took me about 10 minutes to “write” this app. I use the term write VERY loosely since I only wrote a little bit of JavaScript, instead of buckets of Objective-C (which I’m starting to study, I have a pile of books next to me here on the subject).

So, onto my first REAL application planning effort. I know what I want to build first. It’s simple but I want this app on my phone AND on my laptop for daily use. More on that when I get it built.

For now.. enjoy that which I have created. Marvel at it’s simplicity and power. Dare to dream what a single button can do…. bring you some poorly spelled d-bag slang from a cesspool of d-baggery known as New Jersey.

Saturday Ride – taking the Duc out to stretch it’s legs

Took a little jaunt around the ‘East Side’ of Puget Sound.

Hopped the ferry to Seattle.

Stopped by Ducati Seattle for a BBQ. Picked up some new coffee mugs, and hit the road.

Sailed south to the Museum of Flight and renewed my family membership. Looking forward to seeing the Blue Angles this coming weekend at the museum!

Continued south to Eatonville, where I took in a serious helping of twisty roads.

Headed back north, met up with a buddy from work. Him, his dad and myself went to the Ram and harassed the waitresses. Headed home from there.

Oh, and I decided to try my luck at compressing the video into a Flash Video File, here is how that worked out:

Ride 2 Elbe

Hong Kong Toy Shippent Almost Here!

My package from Hong Kong has almost arrived. It appears to have cleared customs and it on it’s way for delivery!

Item Number: CP829903851HK
Posting Date Drop-off Point Origin
6-Jul-2010 Air Mail Centre (Counter Section) Air Mail Centre (Counter Section)
Date # Location Delivery Status
6-Jul-2010 Hong Kong Item posted and is being processed.
7-Jul-2010 Hong Kong Processed for departure.
7-Jul-2010 Hong Kong The item left Hong Kong for its destination on 7-Jul-2010
8-Jul-2010 United States of America Arrived and is being processed.
8-Jul-2010 United States of America Pending customs inspection.
10-Jul-2010 United States of America Arrived the delivery office and is being processed.

Brushless Motor Classifications

Information borrowed from XHeli.com. Place here so I can easily print it.

The 450TH is widely accepted as a great T-Rex helicopter motor, extreme speed in Wings and Jets. The 450F is still undergoing testing but well liked by all helicopter guys. Having a 2.3mm axle for helicopter’s makes it very versatile and useful in gearboxes for planes upto 4 lbs and since you can slide off the bell the 450F is easily modified to a 2250 KV pusher or tractor for direct drive or left at 3450 Tractor or pusher. The lower KV motor is known as the 450FT. I don’t recommend use of the 450F direct drive on Jets and Wings as it spins just too fast, the 450TH is about the upper limit for direct drive on a decent size 6 inch prop. The mod to this motor will enable you to run a 7×5, 8×5 prop with authority. See the data on the 450FT technical page .

Many of you have been asking "What Motor for a specific plane or helicopter". I am thinking of putting together a motor selection guide but for now let’s see if I can provide some information that will help.

Quick rule of thumb – 100-120 Watts per pound provides an excellent experience.

Up to 1 pound plane use : 300DF, 300ST, 400ST, 400T

Up to 2 pound plane use : 400F, 400DF, 450XT

Up to 3 pound plane use : 450TH, 450F, 450FT

T-Rex Heli – 450TH on 13T 3.17mm, or 450F on 10T 2.3mm pinion. For longer run time and less power – 400DH on 9T, 2.3mm.

Shogun Heli – 400DH – 8T pinion

3D Pro Heli – 400DF – 15T pinion

Direct drive – 300DF on 1 pound or lower weight Wings, Depron Jets, 400T – Overlord Wing, Slow and high thrust wings on 8 inch prop, 400F fast and agile on 6×4 prop 3S, 400DF – very fast on 5 inch prop – less thrust, 450FT – excellent on any size plane 7 or 8 inch prop, 450TH – extreme for over 100mph on wings and jets on a 5-6 inch prop.

450TH is an extremely powerful motor, which is most popular in the T-Rex at 3S on a 13T pinion 3.17mm pinion for 2600 RPM, 4S on an 11T pinion for upto 3300 RPM. This motor is available in 3.17mm axle tractor, 2.3mm tractor for gearing in large planes or extreme performance on medium size planes and 3mm pusher format for over 100 mph in Jets and Wings. The 3.17mm bell is locked on the motor.

450F is also and extremely powerful motor that is slightly more versatile than the TH since the bell is removeable on all models. This works well on the T-Rex with a 10T 2.3mm pinion, the same bell runs well geared in airplanes. For a direct drive motor please consider the 450FT.

450FT is a modification to the 450F that you can perform yourself by purchasing a medium speed bell. Pull the 450F bell of and slide on the new medium speed bell and you have just converted the 450F from 3450 KV to 2250 KV. Now you can run 7 and 8 inch prop with authority on your plane, jet, wing.t

450XT drive with upto 11 inch propellors. A 9×9 properllor is excellent for speed. If you have a large 3D airplane – this is the motor for you.

400DH continues to be an extremely popular motor for the Shogun and T-Rex. I recommend an 8T pinion on the shogun, and 9T on the T-Rex. This will provide longer flight times than the 450TH and 3D capability, but not the same insane power that the 450TH provides.

400DF is ideal on the Century 3D Pro Helicopter on a 15T Pinion. This motor is also well liked on pushers (Jets and Wings) and geared is very powerful. Swap bells to go from 3mm pusher to 2.3mm tractor for gearing in a 400 size gearbox.

400F is the same KV (RPM Speed) as the 450FT and very efficient, ideal with a 6×4 prop on a direct drive plane, jet or wing and excellent geared 3:1.

400T is very popular in slope soarers, park flyers and warbirds.

300DF is well liked in depron jets, wings and planes under 16 oz’s and although not 3D, can provide high speed direct drive, or can be geared 3:1 for running larger props and planes.

400ST is ideal in direct drive planes and 3D flying planes

300ST is for very light weight and ideal in light weight planes and 3D planes.

Model Helicopter Blade Balancing – preliminary research

Since I was not 100% certain of the proper method of blade balancing, I’ve started up this page. You see, until 9:00AM this morning I was certain how to properly balance blades. However, after reading the ALIGN Trex450SE instructions, which contain this diagram, I’m not at all certain.

Blade Balancing instructions from the ALIGN Trex Instructions.

Up until now, I had placed the blades trailing edges flat on a table, then tightened the balancing tool, and placed it on the jig. The objective was to have the trailing edges of the blades perfectly level. Here is what it looks like:

My orginal blade balancing method.

I hope you can see the difference in how I placed the blades together, compared to to what the Align manual suggests. Here is a closeup to help illustrate how I used to do this:
Closeup of my balancing method.

Compare this to using the ALIGN documented method:

Using the ALIGN balancing method.

As you can see here, not only does it appear quite different, so is the result! Using this method, my blades are out of balance. Or, are they?

ALIGN balancing method

Now, I’ve gone out and searched and consulted with the great oracles on this subject (the R/C discussion groups) and found the following:

On one of the most helpful sites I’ve found on the web, Mikey demonstrates the blade balancing using the same method, that seemed intuitive to me. Here is a screen shot from the video:

One balance method seen online.

Checking another forum, I found the following this post that discusses first locating the COG (Center of Gravity) on the blades and marking them. Or balancing the COG on the blades so they are the same blade-to-blade, THEN getting them in dynamic balance:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=878885&highlight=blade+balancing

Hm. there seems to be MUCH more to getting a really great balance on your blades than meets the eye! With the vibration issues I’ve been happening, I’m going to do everything I can to provide as stable a main blade balance as possible.

What is most clear at the point, is that I have A LOT more reading to do. PART 2 will follow once I decide on exactly how I will be balancing my blades. The question of the afix orientation of the blades perists, even after I find the COG of the blades.

This link here looks to be the most concise explaination of a balancing method. [LINK]

N450V2A Overhaul – Day 1

I’ve had a few good flights, and few bad flights with the N450V2A. After locating a nasty wobble and some incorrectly manufactured parts, I’ve torn the bird down to just about the bare bones and have started a re-construction.

Starting here with this picture, I have already performed the following.

Replaced the Main bearings in the main bearing blocks. One of the old bearings had a bit of a ‘notchiness’ to it so I tracked down some replacement parts, including two pairs of original Align factory main bearings (5x11x5mm). $6.49.

Old EXI main bearings (red) and new Align main bearings (nude)

They are installed at the top of the frame, and in middle, just above the main gearset (in blue). The main gearset has already been replaced with at genuine factory Align part AGNH1218 $22.99

Mainshaft and main gearset.

The original Pentium 30A ESC (Electronic Speed Control) was showing signs of overloading and causing in-flight resets! In defense of HobbyWing, it looks like I was running too steep a pinion on the main motor (I’ll get to that later). Regardless, I wanted to make SURE I did not have to learn auto-rotation landing in my first few weeks of flying. So I purchased a new genuine Align 35A ESC with Governor, PN 35ABLESC GOVMD5VBEC RCE-BL $53.99. It’s installed high on the frame now, where the battery would normally be located. I did this to help ensure good air flow along it’s heat sink.

New ALIGN 35ABLESC GOVMd5vBEC RCE-BL Speed Controller

As mentioned, it turns out the that original 13T pinon which came with the EXceedRC Alpha 400 63N18 motor is not an appropriate selection. It was suggest that I run either an 11T or 12T pinion by several people online. The local hobby shop had a pretty knowledgeable flyer behind the counter, and suggest a 12T would make a big difference. It’s also the suggested pinion for the factory Align Trec450 V2 (of which mine is a clone). Having already ordered an 11T pinion, I purchased the 12T. Original 13T is on the right, new 12T Align part on the left:

Main drive pinions. New 12T ALIGN part (left) and original ExceedRC 13T part I'm replacing, on the right.

The motor itself might be OK. I’m going to re-use it for now. Another is on the way from Hobbypartz.com price about $20.00. The pinion is only firmly mounted on the shaft, since it will have to be precisely adjusted for main gear engagement once I re-install the motor in the frame.

Motor re-mounted and gear mesh very carefully set.

Next I went about trying to get the main bearings and main shaft running as true and consistent as possible. The bottom bearing has some manufactured in lateral play, nothing I can do about that. But I did manage to snug up the shaft to bearing interface with some very light knurling of the main shaft where it contacts the lower bearing. Additional play looks like it will come out with a slight ‘cocking’ of the upper bearing. Just enough to produce a natural tendancy to run straight. I have plenty of bearings now. One of my next objectives will be to take the extra bearings I have to an expert bearing distributor and see if a higher-quality bearing is available in the same dimensions.

Mainshaft re-installed for the umteenth time.

After all that work, the main shaft finally looks like it’s running true. The dial indicator is still picking up some movement, but it’s about 1/2 or perhaps less than it was originally. I think I managed to take at least a little play out of the main drive system, and that makes very hopeful for some major flight improvements.

Rechecking main shaft runout.

Taking all these parts off, I think it wise to re-check the swash plate level, just in case it something got bent, twisted or otherwise tweaked. Placed the 450 swash leveling took on the plate, and it was dead on! I ordered the tool from XHeli.com (it’s an EXI too) for around $3.50. Well worth the investment. When I checked my ‘by eye’ leveling with the tool I found I was pretty far out. Sure it’s a fair bit more labor to tear down the head to use the tool, but having such a core component as close to perfect spec as humanly possible seems like a wise use of one’s time. Maybe it’s not, but I did it.

Carefully re-checking swash plate angle with swash fixure.

Having conquered my fears of the main shaft, time to rebuild the rotor head from the swash pate up. First thing I want to tackle is the top of the head, sort of going in reverse order. It turns out my latest blade grip purchase, to replace the broken grip, wss of the WRONG PART. My model is a Version 2, and the parts I got, unbeknown to me, were Version 1. Barely close, certainly not the cigar. Now today I did pick up a full compliment of Version 1 parts. Combined with the plastic Version 1 head ($7.99) and 2 pairs of grips($13.99) from the other day, I should be able to assemble a very tight and very functional main rotor head. My ideal scenario would be to re-use the original allow EXI head (left) instead of the new Align plastic Version 1 head (right).

Main Rotor head types. EXI Version 2 (left) and ALIGN Version 1 (right).

It turns out the the V1 head (right) and the alloy V2 original head (left) are identical in width, and the ID of the feathering shaft ($7.99 for three) holes are also identical. The only difference (beyond material) is a more pronounced shoulder in the V1 head. Fit wise though, they tested out (to the best of my abilities) the same! This is very encouraging! All I need to do now is figure out how the V1 head systems is supposed to go together!

Confirmation of compatibility. Rebuild is a GO!

It’s about 1:00AM now. No need to work all night on this thing. I’ll pick this another day, maybe tomorrow, maybe I’ll go ride a motorcycle instead.

POV Camera mounted on EXI-450A

Wednesday was a pretty good day. It marked the arrival of a mini-DVR camera I’ve wanted to buy for quite some time. It went on sale for Fathers day at nearly 1/2 price. I just could not pass up the deal!

Mini DVR Camera

The location of the aperture is not perfect, but I can work with it. In fact I have a new canopy on the way from Hong Kong, that will be cut so I can mount the camera forward of main rotor head, and a little lower to make sure it’s not at risk of a blade strike. In the mean time I have a mount position rear of the main rotor that works OK. I like to have a little bit of the helicopter in view to give some perspective.

Here is an in-door run-up test of the camera.

Having found a suitable location, and even though I’ve still not sorted out the mystery vibration in the main drive train, I wanted to take it out for a flight, and shoot some POV video off the helicopter.

Here is the POV video:

Unfortunately, this was the aftermath of the crash. Broken main blade grip. That really annoying part is that this one of those 2% of the parts that is NOT directly ALIGHN TRex 450 compatible.

EXI-450A V2 main blade grip failure. Good grip (top) broken (middle). Also in photo are the various bearings used by main grips.

I’m able to source ALIGN 450 parts at the LHS (local hobby shop), but these design of these are so different that I don’t think I can use them. The bearings are the same size but they mount in different locations, and I think it’s allowing the blade grips to shift a few thousandths of an inch off-center, making what I know to already to be a nasty run-out on the main shaft, even worse. I’m fairly certain that it’s not an issue with the shaft itself, since I have 4 of them now (1 original and 3 replacements) and they are all showing the same runout when mounted in the drive system (video below shows the problem I am having).

You may notice wobble in the in-flight POV video. That’s not the camera. That’s actually the helicopter when it gets into this harmonic resonance with the main shaft vibration. It can be pretty nasty, and it certaily didn’t help me when I lost control and crashed.

I’m doing some research, consulting with the great oracles, and just trying to sort out the possible cause of the strange shaft run-out. So far, I’ve come across the solution, or solved this problem myself. Here is a video of the some testing I’ve done to quantify the issue: