Tag Archives: repair

My First Subaru

I’m not sure if this is a Southern thing, but in the non-owner neighborhood we live in, when people move out they seem to leave a lot of old junk on the curb in the hopes someone else will repurpose it. Perhaps they just don’t want to pay the feeds to have the junk hauled off. But not all of this is a bad thing, and that’s how I came to own my first Subaru.

A few weeks hence, while drinking a dram of some of Scotland’s finest Water of Life, I spied some boxy looking thing a couple of doors down the street, where a couple (or what was actually left of a couple) was moving out. Whatever it was, it looked like it had caught fire and was ready for an unceremonial dumping into the trash.

The thing languished on the curb for some time, and curiosity got the best of me. Upon inspection of this trash, I discovered that it was a generator, exactly the type of generator and capacity for a good day at the race track.

With the pull-cable hanging out, spots of black spray paint adorning the faded plastic ends, panels hanging off, and parts clearly missing, it was no prize. But grab it I did. Having recently watched some YouTube videos on restoring generators to working order I felt emboldened to take on a project. Besides, my daily work is in the cyber world and tasking myself with tangible project was a nice respite. Grunting and groaning at 3:00 AM, I hauled the wreck back to my garage and closed the door on my new project until the next morning.

Upon completion of my weekly day-job obligations, I changed clothes and set to examining this pile of junk that more assuredly would end up out on my curb by week’s end.

It was quickly appearant that the primary issue with the pull cable was the faded plastic end housing had cracked around the opening where the cable existed and was holding it fast. After some effort, the cable was freed from the housing, and with a pull I heard the sweet sweet sound of a small engine trying to puff to life. It wasn’t seized, it had compression and the pull start mechanism as in tact. At this point some excitement began to emergeā€¦ this just might be salvageable!

The next couple of hours involved removing many semi-fixed and rusted screws, panels and the plastic gas tank. Thank goodness it was plastic and not metal, I had no worries about rust! Once I had the remaining panels removed, it was then that I discovered that this was not some typical Chinese junk-pile motor in the generator. Instead it was clearly marked as an OHC (overhead camshaft) engine made by Subaru. This was a choice acquisition in deed! Even if I could not resurrect the electronics, this engine had value that far exceeded the appropriation cost of a short walk down the street.

Next order of business was to pull the spark plug and check for spark. After some fiddling around in the old tool box for the right spark plug removal tools, I had removed it to find the plug clean and free of rust. Things were looking better and better!

Placing the plug against the cylinder head and pulling the now freed pull start cable, a weak but detectable spark was seen. Yes.. this is going swimmingly. Two of three basic engine requirements satisfied. This seemed to have good compression and it makes spark. All I needed to do now was feed it some fuel and see if there was anything home! Just a quick shot of starting fluid answered that question too, as it briefly sputtered to life. Time to invest a little money in this project.

Over the next couple of days, I washed out, drained and dried the fuel tank, which was full of what looked like rocks. How or why those got in there is still a mystery to me, but I had some success in clearing them and the water out. While that progressed I spent $5 on a can of red paint, $4 on a can of TruFuel and another $5 on a fuel filter to prevent damage to the carburetor from anything I failed to remove from the gas tank.

After improving the aesthetics with some paint, and cleaning out all the nooks and crannies with the trusty air compressor, my first Subaru was ready for re-assembly.

With some pride and a solid sense of accomplishment, I summed the family to observe what I hoped would be a successful startup. With a single pull the generator sprang to life, and I’d further cemented my reputation as the fix-it-dad.

The little red Subaru now lives in the garage next to my other generator, waiting for a new job to do.

Track Truck LIVES – Alternator replacement completed

This really shows it all:

The work was not difficult, but it was a little time consuming to get to the upper most rear bolt, and also to remove the turbo resonator. To do so actually required a 1/4″ spanner wrench to operate on the small E8 TORX head bolts.

To properly address the repair, intake tract has to be removed from the passenger (right) side of the engine. Here you see the parts removed, which include the intake hose, turbo resonator and output hose to intercooler, along with the heat shield.
Sprinter_Project_013

Here is the intake hose and turbo resonator that were removed.
Sprinter_Project_014

Replacement rebuilt alternator, ready to install!

BOSCH Alternator ready to be installed.
BOSCH Alternator ready to be installed.

Close up of the “fiddly bolts” you will encounter doing this work. The larger of the two (there are 4 of these to deal with) use and E12 TORX Socket (seen below the bolt). The smaller of them (there are 2 of these) use an E6 TORX socket, however a 1/4″ wrench works better due to the confined space.

Fiddly TORX head bolts
Fiddly TORX head bolts

A little closer picture of the turbo sands intake hoses.

Turbo, topside.
Turbo, topside.

To easily move the belt tensioner, I found it simplest to just disconnect this hose at the intake (don’t lose the locking clip!), making the turning of the socket wrench on tensioner stud much less of a hassle.

Intake tract and post-intercooler high-pressure hose.
Intake tract and post-intercooler high-pressure hose.

Another part of the system that can fail, are the high-AMP fuses that are located in a black box next to the battery. Here is that box.

Location of high-AMP fuses for T1N Dodge Sprinter
Location of high-AMP fuses for T1N Dodge Sprinter

Inside the high-AMP box are a set of specialty fuses. It’s generally reported that the dealership is the only source of these fuses, and they are not commonly stocked, so it might be a good idea to order a few ahead of time “just in case” as this is not an rare failure point.

High-AMP fuses for Dodge Sprinter (T1N)
High-AMP fuses for Dodge Sprinter (T1N)

Grounds are also an issue on these trucks. This is a main body ground, located right above the battery. In this photo the negative ground is still disconnected from the Alternator replacement service.

Chassis groun; one of the many possible causes of a failing electrical system.
Chassis groun; one of the many possible causes of a failing electrical system.

Another of the highly suspect grounds can be found (again on the driver side) down at the engine mount, and connecting back to the chassis. Both of these grounding points should be carefully examined.

Engine ground strap; one of the various possible causes of Dodge Sprinter electrical maladies.
Engine ground strap; one of the various possible causes of Dodge Sprinter electrical maladies.