Tag Archives: dodge

Track Sprinter: checking high-pressure pump

The number 1 suspected cause of the alternator failures, according to the Sprinter People I’ve queried, is a leaking high pressure fuel pump. So, even though I’m not identifying a clear indicator of a problem, it just seemed prudent to take the time to investigate it while everything else was apart.

There were a lot of steps not shown to get to this point. They all seem pretty straight forward, so I’ve skipped ahead to the part where I actually remove the pump.

There are three E10 torx head bolts that secure the pump to the engine block. Two are fairly easy to access and are located on the upper half of the pump assembly.

Here is one of the bolts being removed.
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The next bolt is located to the left, about mid-pump, very close to the connector you see removed in this photo.
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Here is a slightly better angle showing where the bolt is located.
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There are two electrical plugs that need to be removed. The one on the right slides out forward. The one on the left slides upwards. The left one is a bit of a pain to removed. I used some channel lock pliers to get an even pressure on the rear clips and gently wiggle it upwards until it came off. Take your time, breaking more parts while doing a repair is not a good plan.
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Plugs disconnected and ready to move onto the last steps. NOTE: The high pressure outlet has already been disconnected (top of pump). You can see the threads of the connector at top of photo. To removed these I needed an 18mm open wrench to hold the lower fitting in the pump, and a 14mm flare nut wrench to remove the coupling on the high pressure line feeding the injectors. That’s an important step. You won’t be able to remove the pump with them connected. What I didn’t remove when I was working on mine (maybe a bad choice) were the two lower pressure feed and return lines about mid-pump on the right (not seen here).
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Last of the three bolts is bottom center. As much as I’d like to do as little removal of parts as possible, I don’t really see a practical way to get at this bolt without removing the fan blades from the clutch. You just have to do it. I found the 3 bolts on the fan to be 5mm HEX socket (not torx). They were torqued pretty tight. They are a normal right-hand thread, nothing tricky there.
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And what did I find on the back of the pump? 2 of the 6 bolts had completely backed out. You can also see that there is diesel fuel on the back of the pump. This matches up with the failure mode described by others, and is the smoking gun (along with the turbo resonator) that I believe was killing my alternators.

All 6 bolts were thread-locked with blue and re-torqued, and pump re-installed.
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With the pump re-installed, next step is to re-install the alternator, turbo resonator, intake charge system and get a volt meter installed for diagnostics.

Progress is being made!

Sprinter T1N Failing Turbo Resonator

It’s a common problem, when the T1N Sprinters get a little long in the tooth. The turbo resonator (pressure side) can start to split, causing loss of boost and the dreaded Limp Home Mode.

Mine was not exempt from this plight. Below are some example photos of what the Turbo Resonator looks like when failing. This example shows the common separation of along the bonding lines. During high boost this can open and cause the loss of pressure, power and then a CEL fault which the trucks ECU detects as a dangerous condition for the engine and cuts severely reduces power.

This is what the part looks like. It is connected directly to the outlet side of the boost section of turbocharger. The rubber o-ring seals to the turbos (pressue side, not exhaust / impeller side).
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Closeup of the gap formed at the bonding point. I’m told this is the typical failure point. In a lot of case you wont’ be able to see this unless the motor is under boost. In my case, it looks like it’s been failing for some time, it probably why the seller unloaded the truck $2500 under asking price.
dodge sprinter 3500 turbo resonator

Another area that I’m told is possibly suspect fails is the outlet side. I didn’t see any signs of a failure here, but it’s something to check if you suspect you have this issue.
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Another thing to look for is leakage around the o-ring. In this case there is crud around the area, but the ring appears in tact and no signs of blow-by. It turns out the crud was from the primary cause of my reliability issues, from a totally separate part.
dodge sprinter 3500 turbo resonator

Fortunately, this part is not really difficult to remove. A 1/4″ wrench or an E8 female Torx socket (later bring the correct tool) and remove too small bolts when it attaches to the alternator bracket and it’s removed.

Also of good news is that a good, reported very reliable by the Sprinter community replacement, is available on Amazon.com for less than $30.

Track Truck: conversion back underway

While waiting for repair parts, and researching the possible causes for the alternator deaths… I brought over The Boy to help out with some cleanup and conversion prep.

The original flooring was actually in very good shape, other than the poor paint job applied by a previous owner. I set the boy to scrubbing it down with a high-tech degreaser and a lower tech broom. Some of the old loose paint easily came up but the rest seemed adequately adhered for the next step of the project; new flooring.
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The rubber flooring I planned to use came in rolls from China, so they had been in that state for a long time. To ease installation when that phase comes around they were unrolled flat and stacked under the plywood floor. Then I found some stuff to stack on top of it to make sure they were reasonably flat.
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Back to the headlights… as you can see, the still need a lot of work. This is the 2nd of the pair. Again, it will be treated with sanding and polishing.
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The other light is sufficiently refurbished for my needs, and was set aside during the previous day’s efforts. It doesn’t look too bad. But still not perfect. Note: I actually did one more round of this before re-installing them in the van.
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Back to the interior work. Getting the road noise levels down is an important part of this projects. If I plan to do long distance treking in this, I don’t want to be yelling all day, or fatigued from the noise. I did test it with an DB meter and the average level was 85db on a highway.

Here the poor-man’s Dynomat is being installed over the wheel wells. This asphalt roof repairing product is reported to have similar sound deadening properties as the vastly more expensive Dynomat. A small roll of this is available at the local hardware box for about $16.

Using a heat gun makes short work of complex curves. Easy-peasy. It’s just a little time consuming to cut the stuff, and press it into place.
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The first (and eventually failed) effort to attach the rubber to the wood. In this first round I used a Liquid Nails product. The specs looked good; very low VOCs; water cleanup… what’s not to love?

Placing pressure on the mats then maintaining with some stuff laying around the shop so that it bonds nicely to the floor. At least that was the plan I executed.
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Shifting gears a little bit, I removed the Turbo Resonator and examined it on my operating room quality work area. I have a separate write-up on this. In the end I determined that the part was failing and likely contributor to the alternator death syndrome.
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Back to the interior. With some help from The Boy we finished covering the wheel wells. The aluminum backed roofing seal didn’t fully cover the wells, so a less expensive product (Jiffy Seal) without the aluminum backing was acquired to complete the product. The Jiffy Seal was then covered with aluminum tape to maintain the same “look”.
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One done with the wheel wells, I popped back onto the internet to look at possible causes for the failure, the most ominous of which is a possible failure in the High Pressure injector pump (large black assembly on the right).

It does not look like a fun thing to remove and look for problems. I’m generally of the mind that if it’s not clearly broken or in need of refurbishing, I don’t want to mess with it. Some more investigation is underway.
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Below and to the left of the pump is the turbo charger. The intake hose as been removed and the high-pressure cold-side routing, which includes the turbo resonator has also been removed. Both the resonator and the pump are above the alternator and could possible cause it to fail should they leak fuel or high-pressure intake gasses.
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High pressure pump in close up. The black part is the front block, which bolts to a larger raw aluminum block with the drive assembly. It’s said that the pump can leak between the two plates if the bolts that hold it together, internally, begin to loosen. This is a known issue with the 2004-2006 model year.
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Next effort will be to consider removal of the high pressure pump. At least the front end is mostly stripped down and access will not be horribly difficult.

Track Truck: Diagnosing the illness

While doing some research on the problem and waiting for parts, I decided to pull out the headlamps to work on them.
Removed from the truck, they are easier to work on.

T1N Dodge Sprinter headlamps
T1N Dodge Sprinter headlamps

One diagnostic task, is to look for unusual current loads in the system. First stop was the headlamps, looking for evidence that some clown hat put in 100w bulbs or some other nonsense. What I found was just that sort of… nonsense. Luckily they didn’t over-watt the lamps, but at some point someone put in those inane blue headlamps (but they looks so cool.. no!). I didn’t detect this because the blue one was burned out. All the better. A pair of 55w H7 replacements will be procured.
T1N Dodge Sprinter headlamps

With the lamps out, I’m going to do some sanding and polishing on them to return some of the original clarity. Right now, they are much better after that first attempt, but they are not where I want them to be.

T1N Dodge Sprinter headlamps
T1N Dodge Sprinter headlamps

Some sanding with 800, 1500 and 2000 grit wet-sand, then a light polish with Mequires… they don’t look too bad. But I know they can be better.

T1N Dodge Sprinter headlamps
T1N Dodge Sprinter headlamps

To fully diagnose the electrical gremlins that are plaguing me, getting unrestricted access to all the grounds and the glow plug relay pack, goes a long way. So.. I started to take apart the front bodywork.
T1N Dodge Sprinter 3500

Neat Sprinter tidbit… this is the air intake (other side does not have this vent). This is a true cold-air intake. Air box is right there behind the headlamp (or where it would normally reside). Also, it’s possible to get at the grounds behind and under the headlamp with those parts out of the way.
T1N Dodge Sprinter 3500

After re-checking and cleaning all the ground table locations, and there are plenty, I focused on the glow plug relay. Typically the relay itself does not fair hideously, but what more commonly happens is a glow plug (or 5) will short out, causing a heavy drain (more than 20A) on the electrical system. 5 glow plugs shorted out is over 100A of current and would easily kill the 90A stock alternator.
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Based on information obtained from the various Sprinter forums, I fabricated (term used loosely) a jumper cable that can be used to test glow plugs for a shorted condition.
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Because the simplest place to test it from the glow plug relay harness, I unplued the 5 wire connector (1 for each GP).
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On one end of the wire is a spade connector that is screwed to the battery. I didn’t want to have to mess with holding both ends of the wire. On the other end, I crimped on a small finish nail. This is useful when testing the glow plugs from the glow plug harness.
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Poking the wire into each of these connectors here, I was able to determine that none of the 5 glow plugs are exhibiting the signs of a short. When I bought the vehicle the owner assured me the glow plugs had all be replaced in the last 2 years. It seems very likely that was a truthy statement. All good in this arena. But that also means I must continue to look for the cause of my woes.
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Since the bumper on this thing was in pretty bad cosmetic shape, I decided to remove it too for a little refurbishing at some point down the road.
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This little LED light really came in handy when working on things under the beast. Takes 3 C-cells and provides a pretty good amount of light, even if they LEDs are not the wide angle type. It was much easier than the conventional flashlights (due to built-in stand) and not hot and tangly like an old-school drop light (I really do have a heavy dislike for them).
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To keep the new battery charged up while I sorted out this mess, I re-purposed one of the 25′ charging cables from the MV Agusta, added the charging lugs to the Sprinter’s battery, and plugged it into this gem I picked up last month. Love having the computerized 1.25 AMP computer controlled charger.
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With the Glow Plugs eliminated as the likely cause of my troubles.. the next step is more drastic… checking the turbo system and fuel system components. Good times ahead.

Track Truck LIVES – Alternator replacement completed

This really shows it all:

The work was not difficult, but it was a little time consuming to get to the upper most rear bolt, and also to remove the turbo resonator. To do so actually required a 1/4″ spanner wrench to operate on the small E8 TORX head bolts.

To properly address the repair, intake tract has to be removed from the passenger (right) side of the engine. Here you see the parts removed, which include the intake hose, turbo resonator and output hose to intercooler, along with the heat shield.
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Here is the intake hose and turbo resonator that were removed.
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Replacement rebuilt alternator, ready to install!

BOSCH Alternator ready to be installed.
BOSCH Alternator ready to be installed.

Close up of the “fiddly bolts” you will encounter doing this work. The larger of the two (there are 4 of these to deal with) use and E12 TORX Socket (seen below the bolt). The smaller of them (there are 2 of these) use an E6 TORX socket, however a 1/4″ wrench works better due to the confined space.

Fiddly TORX head bolts
Fiddly TORX head bolts

A little closer picture of the turbo sands intake hoses.

Turbo, topside.
Turbo, topside.

To easily move the belt tensioner, I found it simplest to just disconnect this hose at the intake (don’t lose the locking clip!), making the turning of the socket wrench on tensioner stud much less of a hassle.

Intake tract and post-intercooler high-pressure hose.
Intake tract and post-intercooler high-pressure hose.

Another part of the system that can fail, are the high-AMP fuses that are located in a black box next to the battery. Here is that box.

Location of high-AMP fuses for T1N Dodge Sprinter
Location of high-AMP fuses for T1N Dodge Sprinter

Inside the high-AMP box are a set of specialty fuses. It’s generally reported that the dealership is the only source of these fuses, and they are not commonly stocked, so it might be a good idea to order a few ahead of time “just in case” as this is not an rare failure point.

High-AMP fuses for Dodge Sprinter (T1N)
High-AMP fuses for Dodge Sprinter (T1N)

Grounds are also an issue on these trucks. This is a main body ground, located right above the battery. In this photo the negative ground is still disconnected from the Alternator replacement service.

Chassis groun; one of the many possible causes of a failing electrical system.
Chassis groun; one of the many possible causes of a failing electrical system.

Another of the highly suspect grounds can be found (again on the driver side) down at the engine mount, and connecting back to the chassis. Both of these grounding points should be carefully examined.

Engine ground strap; one of the various possible causes of Dodge Sprinter electrical maladies.
Engine ground strap; one of the various possible causes of Dodge Sprinter electrical maladies.

Track Truck – first repair attempts

At the beginning of the week, the new truck broke down outside of town. After some fighting we got it back to the garage for diagnostics.

Once running again after purchasing a new battery charger and hours of fiddling, it was clear the battery was junk.

Testing battery and charging system performance.
Testing battery and charging system performance.

It looked like a cheapo battery, and it had no date indicators on it to clue me in to it’s age. Regardless…

It's dead, Jim.
It’s dead, Jim.

Once a new battery was obtained, it was then possible to truly test the remainder of the charging system, namely the alternator.

Having started up the van easily with the new battery, checking voltage across the terminals showed that the rest of the charging system was in failure. This could have killed the battery during our repeated jump-starts to get it back home. Might have just been cheaper to tow it (note to self).

Lack of charging can be result of multiple issues other than a bad alternator in the Sprinters. The most common culprit are bad grounds. There are several on the driver (left in USA) side of the engine room that need to be checked.

  • main chassis ground just above the battery negative terminal
  • engine main ground on the left side engine mount, connected to the frame rail in the same area
  • control system and accessory points below the battery near the headlamp

Having checked all those and cleaned them for good measure, the next easy win is checking the alternator fuse. On the sprinter there is a large plastic block bolted to the battery cable lead connector. From that block runs several high-amp wires (red) and one very large black wire, which heads to the alternator (this is the main charging feed). Inside this block there are plastic fuses of various amperage, high amperage, including a 200A fuse on the charging system side. This fuse is next checked for continuity to ensure that it is not open, and thus causing the charging system to fail.

Having inspected that, and seeing that it is in tact, the next avenue of investigation is the alternator itself.

Following the acquisition of some TORX Sockets (female, not male), sizes E12 and E6 where required, and about 1 hour of pulling parts to access top and bottom of the alternator, the item was removed.

Turbo charger as seen from top in Dodge 3500 Sprinter (intake and outflow piping removed).
Turbo charger as seen from top in Dodge 3500 Sprinter (intake and outflow piping removed).
Dodge 3500 Sprinter intake and turbo outflow parts
Dodge 3500 Sprinter intake and turbo outflow parts
Dodge Sprinter 2500 90Amp alternator
Dodge Sprinter 2500 90Amp alternator

Tomorrow I will be picking up a rebuilt alternator for around $210. Hopefully that brings the fun-van back to life!

Sprinter 3500 Track Project- Day 1

It’s January 1, 2015. Not only is it a new day, and a new year, but a new project.

It’s Project Track Truck. Prepping for the next season of track days begins now, with the end of a 3 month search for the desired track vehicle. After much deliberation, waffling, searching (including writing software to find these elusive beasts at less than insane prices), missing out deals…. I finally (think) I have it.

A 2004 Dodge Sprinter 3500 Long WB, High Roof, Extended Box. Yeap, it’s as big as big and heavy duty as they came in 2004.

With a GVW Rating of 9990 lb., this is just a couple of happy meals shy of a commercial vehicle. Powered by a 154 HP, 5-cylinder diesel engine (yes, it’s forced induction by way of turbocharger). It’s no sports car, and it’s also not very pretty. In fact, I believe the first words out of the Mrs. mouth were: “Holy crap, that thing is ugly. Have you lost your mind?”

Perhaps… but it’s my mind to lose (I think), and this is how I plan to do it.

2004 Dodge Sprinter 3500
2004 Dodge Sprinter 3500

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Cleaning it up

Later in the day, I assembled a crack cleaning crew, consisting of myself and my 12 y.o. son. We embarked upon a clean-up effort to remove the gruesome letting from the van.

After nearly 4 hours of labor, a trip to the hardware store, and some failed ideas.. we were able to mostly clean up the passenger door and the two rear doors.

It might not seem like much, but it was some progress, and even though I might still shudder when visible in daylight, for now, at the moment, at night… with poor lighting.. it almost looks OK.
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